In the early 2010s, I explored hidden Bangkok for a living. As the editor of a now-defunct city magazine, I prided myself on seeking out fringe attractions, from bizarre museums to amulet markets.
It was a fun job, although not without its depressing side: Many of the places I wrote about eventually disappeared. Eviction notices were dislodging communities to make way for shiny mixed-use developments or mass-transport extensions; municipal decrees were forcing street vendors into designated market zones in the name of public safety or food hygiene. While I was (and remain) a guest in the city, I have often felt upset at the reckless pace and violence of heartless gentrification.





