One recent sunny morning in the shadow of the Himalayas, I stood beside a grave in the historic British Cemetery in Nepal's capital, Kathmandu, as a Gurkha soldier in full dress uniform played a haunting bagpipe lament.
The occasion was the 50th anniversary of the death of a 25-year-old New Zealander named Heather Horscroft who, like many foreigners before and since, had visited the fabled mountain paradise never to return home.
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