In a retro suburb of Tokyo, nightclubs are second homes

Koenji's diverse music dives double as refuges for patrons

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Tokyo's Koenji district is home to cozy nightspots where fashion, music and art collide. (Nikkei montage/Source photos courtesy of Edward M. Gomez and Botchy-Botchy)  

EDWARD M. GOMEZ

Big cities provide enticing stomping grounds for creatures of the night, and Tokyo is no exception. Its broad avenues can suddenly turn -- and shrink -- into narrow side streets and labyrinthine alleyways. These tucked-away arteries, lit up at night by bars' and restaurants' colorful signs and lanterns, can make the metropolis feel all the more alluring.

Consider the long procession of eateries packed tightly beneath the elevated tracks at Shinbashi Station, or the warren of tiny yakitori joints squeezed into the Omoide Yokocho block at the northern end of Shinjuku Station, or the bland-by-day, fabulous-by-night bars and sunakku (snacks, or intimate bars presided over by proprietors proffering booze and chat) of Shinjuku's Ni-chome gay district. These urban spaces, overflowing with atmosphere, will never be replicated by virtual-reality gizmos.

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