Laugh, marvel and live: a philistine visits Japan's art island

Brief but concentrated exposure to Naoshima makes a contemporary art cynic think again

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Yayoi Kusama's polka-dotted pumpkin on Naoshima. (Getty Images)

PETER TASKER

The first thing I saw on disembarking from the ferry was a giant polka-dotted pumpkin sitting on the dockside.

"That's an iconic artwork," said my companion, browsing the guidebook. "People come from all over the world to see it."

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