Every time I criticize India's Hindu nationalist Bharatiya Janata Party-led government, I have been told to "go to Pakistan" by legions of internet trolls. For nationalist Indians, Pakistan is an "enemy" country, viewed as socially backward, regressive and a den of terrorism.
So when Pakistani immigration officials welcomed me with big smiles in early December, I thought: "Finally, I am in the enemy country. Let's see how the enemy behaves!"
