Serious reservations about Japan's fine dining scene

Set menus and formal sittings are taking the fun out of upmarket restaurants

Oysters from Saga Prefecture with citrus sauce topped with nori seaweed sugalabo .jpeg

Oysters from Saga prefecture with citrus sauce topped with nori seaweed, as served at high-end Tokyo eatery Sugalabo. (Photo by Michiyo Nakamoto)

MICHIYO NAKAMOTO

We were instructed to be at the restaurant in Tokyo's glitzy Ginza district at 8:30 p.m. sharp. When we arrived, just in time, all the other diners were seated. For the next two hours, we enjoyed a multicourse meal of delectable dishes including chawanmushi savory egg custard topped with sea urchin and abalone with a slightly bitter sauce made from abalone liver.

Everything was perfect, from the impeccable service to the artistic ceramic ware and exquisite food. But after several courses, I became uneasily aware that we were being served what seemed like a multicourse kaiseki (haute cuisine) meal, even though the restaurant was a sushi establishment. And by the time we finally got to the nigirizushi (vinegared rice with toppings) I felt like I had already eaten a full meal.

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