The politics of cuisine in India's social system

Marginalized Dalit culinary wisdom has been hidden for centuries

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Gunaabaai, the mother of "Dalit Kitchens of Marathwada" author Shahu Patole, prepares food at her home in Osmanabad, India. (Photo by Bhushan Korgaonkar)

ZINARA RATHNAYAKE

MUMBAI -- The first time I encountered Dalit food was a recipe for blood fry, a goat-blood dish often prepared by Dalit communities across India in the absence of meat.

Indian restaurants have spread across the world, serving everything from butter chicken to mutton biryani (a rice dish) and saffron-scented chai (Indian tea). Within India, restaurants embrace the country's diverse geography, religions and cultures, while cookbooks, magazines and coffee-table books preserve centuries-old culinary legacies, family rituals and heirloom ingredients.

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