Bali scores gastro-points with 'indescribable' roast duck

Traditional dish is so good that food critics struggle to describe it

Stuffing a duck with bumbu spice mix by Ian Neubauer 2.jpg

It's what's on the inside that counts: A duck is stuffed with the special mix of spices necessary to create the Indonesian delicacy bebek betutu. (Ian Neubauer)

IAN LLOYD NEUBAUER, Contributing writer

UBUD, Indonesia  -- "No question about it, this is the best pig I have ever had. Absolutely the best. You think even the finest French chef could ever come up with anything as delicious or as beautiful as this?"

When the TV chef Anthony Bourdain uttered these words while filming in Indonesia in 2006, he turned babi guling -- Balinese pig roasted on a spit -- from a local favorite into a global delicacy.

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