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Bangkok works up an appetite for contemporary Thai food

Upscale restaurant launches show the national cuisine in a more rarefied light

Crabmeat spring rolls at Baan Suriyasai, which serves textbook renditions of Thai classics (Photo by Vincent Vichit-Vadakan)

BANGKOK -- The traditional Thai kitchen takes a seemingly nonchalant approach to composing a meal. Shared items are usually served together in samrab (home) style, arriving on the table more or less at the same time, or as the cook sees fit.

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