Can foreign chefs save Japanese cuisine from extinction?

Keepers of time-honored culinary traditions seek help from afar

20191022N washoku dishes

Traditional Japanese food goes beyond just sushi and tempura. (Photo by Takuya Imai)

YOHEI MATSUO and HIROTO ARAMAKI, Nikkei staff writers

TOKYO -- As younger Japanese abandon rice, miso soup and grilled fish in favor of such overseas fare as bread, curry and ramen, a relatively recent adoption from China, foreign chefs are increasingly seen as the unlikely saviors of the country's centuries-old culinary traditions.

First-year students at the Tokyo College of Sushi and Washoku -- what traditional Japanese food is called in Japan -- are engrossed in slicing daikon radish into a long, razor-thin ribbon. Their curriculum begins with exhaustive training in the foundations of Japanese cuisine, from making the perfect rolled omelet to filleting fish.

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