Footloose in Xi'an: More than the terracotta army

Food, markets and an ancient wall enrich the capital of China's Shaanxi province

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The Muslim Quarter of the central Chinese city of Xi'an is filled with bustling markets. (All photos by Charukesi Ramadurai)

CHARUKESI RAMADURAI

XI'AN, China -- Say the word Xi'an, and people think of the Chinese city's astounding collection of terracotta warriors, created to guard the Emperor Qin Shi Huang's tomb in the third century B.C. But on a recent trip to the city, the capital of Shaanxi province, I discovered that there is much more to see -- from a well-preserved city wall to quirky pagodas, lively markets and a thriving street food scene.

I started my exploration with a walk on the city wall, which runs for 13.7 kilometers and can be entered through any of four gates sited at the cardinal points of the compass. Built in 1370, during China's Ming dynasty (1368-1644), the wall has 12-meter-high ramparts, sophisticated drawbridges, massive watchtowers and a moat (now dry), creating a miniature medieval city in the heart of the modern metropolis.

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