KANADUKATHAN, India -- Emerald paddy fields, quiet temples fronted by small water tanks, terracotta horses and brightly painted gopurams (temple towers) clustered around neglected old mansions. This is Kanadukathan, a small village in the Chettinad region of south-central Tamil Nadu state, which was once home to the wealthy merchant class known as the Chettiars.
The Chettiars showcased their wealth by building more than 10,000 grand mansions, some constructed as late as the 1930s, often in flamboyant styles incorporating luxury materials such as Italian marble, Murano glass and teak from Myanmar (then called Burma). Today, most are used only for special events such as festivals and weddings. Some are freshly painted, with facades of orange and green, but many have an abandoned look. A few are locked up in legal battles between multiple owners.
