Japanese chefs put their own twist on fine European dining

Yoji Tokuyoshi is among a new generation who blend innovation and commitment

20180802 Yoji Tokuyoshi Soba

Yoji Tokuyoshi's "soba and tempura": Pasta made from a blend of grano arso and buckwheat flour, dusted with bottarga and sprinkled with hazelnuts, accompanied by a zucchini-blossom fritter. (Courtesy of Ristorante Tokuyoshi)

MELINDA JOE, Contributing writer

MILAN -- Despite its location in a former sushi restaurant on a quiet street in Milan, Ristorante Tokuyoshi bears little resemblance to its predecessor. Inside the green-walled space, the plain wooden counter has been converted into a stylish dining bar set with wineglasses; sushi and sashimi are nowhere on the tasting menu.

Patron-chef Yoji Tokuyoshi, who was born in Japan, is at the forefront of Italian cuisine, known for his avant-garde creations, such as Sicilian cannoli filled with creamed cod and edible flowers; and pizza made with mortadella, anchovies and fried artichokes, layered atop a puffed rice cracker and served alongside caper broth.

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