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Japanese chefs put their own twist on fine European dining

Yoji Tokuyoshi is among a new generation who blend innovation and commitment

Yoji Tokuyoshi's "soba and tempura": Pasta made from a blend of grano arso and buckwheat flour, dusted with bottarga and sprinkled with hazelnuts, accompanied by a zucchini-blossom fritter. (Courtesy of Ristorante Tokuyoshi)

MILAN -- Despite its location in a former sushi restaurant on a quiet street in Milan, Ristorante Tokuyoshi bears little resemblance to its predecessor. Inside the green-walled space, the plain wooden counter has been converted into a stylish dining bar set with wineglasses; sushi and sashimi are nowhere on the tasting menu.

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