GOSEONG, South Korea -- Kim Hak-yeon watched birds fly back and forth over the barbed-wire fences that map out the border between North and South Korea.
Kim was part of a group of 70 hikers on a trip this month along the Demilitarized Zone. Seoul organizes sporadic visits to the area, a place of raw natural beauty punctuated with signboards reminding passersby of the risk of landmines, so that South Koreans can see the legacy of war for themselves.







