Yangon bustles as the regime attempts to make city life feel relatively "normal," while conflict between resistance and army forces has engulfed many other areas of Myanmar. (Source photos by Ken Kobayashi and Mauk Kham Wah)

Myanmar, 3 years on: Resistance gains raise specter of splintered nation

Ahead of Feb. 1 army takeover anniversary, Yangon calm contrasts with intensifying war

GWEN ROBINSON, Editor-at-large, and YUICHI NITTA, Nikkei staff writer

January 30, 2024 06:02 JST

BANGKOK/TOKYO -- The Heart of Rangoon is crowded and rowdy in the evenings, with beer flowing and music blaring. Stylish new bars and restaurants have opened around Myanmar's commercial capital Yangon in recent months, driven by the military regime's efforts to make city life look "normal" despite authoritarian rule, a broad campaign to crush dissent and war engulfing much of the nation.

Shopping malls are drawing crowds, and several luxury hotels that closed after the Feb. 1, 2021, military takeover have reopened. Visitors to central Yangon may be surprised to see barely a soldier or police officer.