I suppose it is the passage of time.
From the 1990s to the 2000s, the fashion industry suddenly entered an era dominated by the "logic of capital."

I unthinkingly stood (next to Kenzo Takada, left) like a samurai, prepared to unsheathe my sword at his final show, in Paris, in 1999.
T, a mysterious 'partner in intrigue,' helps to expand the business