'Camouflage cooking' makes a comeback

On a recent trip to Hanoi, I discovered egg coffee. It was a beverage I had never heard of, and I did not expect it to appeal to my palate, which is used to strong south Indian filter coffee. But I loved the frothy, sweet concoction, created in a Hanoi cafe in the 1940s because of a fresh milk shortage during the First Indochina War (1946-54).