How food crosses Malaysia's ethno-religious boundaries

Loved by all, 'mamak' restaurants provide comfort food and respite from politics and identity issues

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Indian, Chinese and Malay dishes share equal billing on the menu at mamak restaurants -- eateries run by Tamil Muslims in Malaysia. (All photos by Joseph Rachman)

JOSEPH RACHMAN

It is 10 p.m., but Nasi Kandar Deen bistro in Kuala Lumpur is buzzing. Young Malay men, some in prayer robes and caps, others in jeans and baseball caps, chat over drinks and a post-Ramadan meal. A young Chinese woman taps a laptop as her companion browses his phone. Three generations of an Indian family are just departing, leaving shining steel serving platters blotted with sauce.

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