In a retro suburb of Tokyo, nightclubs are second homes

Koenji's diverse music dives double as refuges for patrons

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Tokyo's Koenji district is home to cozy nightspots where fashion, music and art collide. (Nikkei montage/Source photos courtesy of Edward M. Gomez and Botchy-Botchy)  

EDWARD M. GOMEZ

Big cities provide enticing stomping grounds for creatures of the night, and Tokyo is no exception. Its broad avenues can suddenly turn -- and shrink -- into narrow side streets and labyrinthine alleyways. These tucked-away arteries, lit up at night by bars' and restaurants' colorful signs and lanterns, can make the metropolis feel all the more alluring.

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