Every time I criticize India's Hindu nationalist Bharatiya Janata Party-led government, I have been told to "go to Pakistan" by legions of internet trolls. For nationalist Indians, Pakistan is an "enemy" country, viewed as socially backward, regressive and a den of terrorism.
Tea Leaves
Making friends with the 'enemy'
An Indian writer takes a brief but meaningful day trip to Pakistan
The author at Kartarpur Sahib, a gurdwara (Sikh place of worship) in the Pakistani state of Punjab on the site where the founder of Sikhism, Guru Nanak, lived for 18 years until his death in 1539. (All photos by Sonia Sarkar)
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