One of my favorite restaurants in Tokyo is a place you won't find in the Michelin Guide or on a list of the world's best eateries. A far cry from the sophisticated fine dining establishments that the Japanese capital is known for, Abusan is a shoebox-size shellfish joint hidden on a backstreet near my neighborhood in western Tokyo. The L-shaped counter seats seven (or eight in a pinch), and the toilet is located in an alley outside of the restaurant. The chef plies his trade in a corner outfitted with two charcoal braziers and a small refrigerated case displaying the day's catch.
Tea Leaves
Small is beautiful but perilously fragile in Tokyo's dining scene
Tiny food outlets struggle to survive but form the backbone of a celebrated food culture
Marologa Bhavan, a South Asian restaurant located in suburban Tokyo's Nakano ward, is part of Tokyo's rich culinary mosaic. (All photos by Melinda Joe)
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