Why rice rules Japan

The crop is embedded in the national DNA, but output is under threat

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Nothing tastes quite like rice steamed in a clay pot. (Photo by Kaori Shoji)

KAORI SHOJI

Rice is to the Japanese what wine is to the French. There are regional histories and mythical lore. There are family heirloom rice paddies and religious rituals. More than 500 different varieties of rice are grown, each subtly distinct in color, flavor and texture. Rice is embedded in Japan's DNA and forms a large chunk of its national identity.

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