Finding precious art amid Bali's commercial bustle

Ignored by many tourists, Ubud's Temple of Painting is a treasure trove

Lempad drawing detail

Detail of a scene from the Ramayana, an ancient Indian epic, drawn by the late Indonesian artist I Gusti Nyoman Lempad. (Photo by Stephen Grenville) 

STEPHEN GRENVILLE, Contributing writer

UBUD, Indonesia -- Nestled in the folds of Bali's volcanic landscape, high enough to escape the cloying humidity of the coastline, the village of Ubud provides the perfect setting to absorb the island's magical cosmic vibe. Beyond its luxury villas and five-star resorts, Ubud is known as the cultural hub of this majority-Hindu island. But you cannot experience the "real" Ubud while stretched out in a hotel spa or sipping a cocktail beside the pool.

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