A new generation of renegade Vietnamese chefs breaks through

Innovative cuisine movement is firing shots being heard all over Asia

20210525 VietMain

Hanoi-born chef Hoang Tung, center, leads the kitchen staff at the maverick high-end restaurant A by Tung. Located in the hipster-gentrifying Tan Dinh ward, Tung's restaurant exemplifies the new generation of Vietnamese chefs who are daring to reconceptualize the country's culinary traditions, with a side of their own personal histories and experiences. (Photo by Mervin Lee)

PAVAN SHAMDASANI, Contributing writer

HO CHI MINH CITY -- Last April, a shot rang out in Asia's culinary world, its echo still resonating across the continent.

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