BANGKOK -- The traditional Thai kitchen takes a seemingly nonchalant approach to composing a meal. Shared items are usually served together in samrab (home) style, arriving on the table more or less at the same time, or as the cook sees fit.
Upscale restaurant launches show the national cuisine in a more rarefied light

Crabmeat spring rolls at Baan Suriyasai, which serves textbook renditions of Thai classics (Photo by Vincent Vichit-Vadakan)
BANGKOK -- The traditional Thai kitchen takes a seemingly nonchalant approach to composing a meal. Shared items are usually served together in samrab (home) style, arriving on the table more or less at the same time, or as the cook sees fit.