PARO, Bhutan -- At 3,100 meters above sea level, Dochula Pass is a brief stopover between the Bhutanese capital Thimphu and the subtropical valley of Punakha. Along the journey, red rhododendrons appear from cypress-clad slopes, and Buddhist prayer flags flutter in the air. On a hillock, 108 chortens (small stupas) stand in memory of Bhutanese soldiers killed in 2003 fighting insurgents from the neighboring Indian state of Assam, who used camps in Bhutan's forests as bases for separatist operations in India.






