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Yai and 1970s House - Jessami, Manipur, India. (BAL). 3-Nov-22.jpg

Yaiphaba Kangjam, a battlefield guide and historian, poses with a Japanese World War II helmet found in the fields of Jessami, a village in the northeastern Indian state of Manipur. (Photo by Bertie Alexander)

BERTIE ALEXANDER, Contributing writer

December 21, 2022 08:00 JST

KHARASOM, India -- We were served sweet tea and shortbread while waiting for the king, sitting on low rattan stools in a single-story red-brick cottage. Two boys crouched behind our hostess, staring unblinking with bold, hazel eyes, sucking on their biscuits. At my feet yawned a Naga hunting hound, a midnight black Tangkhul Hui.