Rediscovering Sri Lanka through a travel memoir

Island paradise mixes beguiling charm with an astonishing record of violence

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Colombo's Mount Lavinia Hotel in the 1960s. One of Asia's legendary colonial hotels, it was managed by the author's father through the political upheaval of the 1970s. "It was a turbulent time, much of which my father spent in remand and jail." (Photo courtesy of Razeen Sally)

RAZEEN SALLY, Contributing writer

Foreign visitors have for centuries rhapsodized about Sri Lanka, or Ceylon as it was called until 1972: its seashores and landscapes, its governing religion, Buddhism, and its majority ethnicity, the Sinhalese.

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