Varanasi cleans up despite Ganges pollution failure

India's holiest ancient city is modernizing, with help from volunteers

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The Ganga Aarti is one of Varanasi's main touristic draws. (Photo by Kit Yeng Chan)

MARCO FERRARESE, Contributing Writer

VARANASI, India -- On my first visit to India's ancient holy city of Varanasi, I passed a shocked British backpacker who was fixated by the sight of a human skull lying on the pavement.

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