VARANASI, India -- On my first visit to India's ancient holy city of Varanasi, I passed a shocked British backpacker who was fixated by the sight of a human skull lying on the pavement.
India's holiest ancient city is modernizing, with help from volunteers

The Ganga Aarti is one of Varanasi's main touristic draws. (Photo by Kit Yeng Chan)
VARANASI, India -- On my first visit to India's ancient holy city of Varanasi, I passed a shocked British backpacker who was fixated by the sight of a human skull lying on the pavement.